Progress..?

Well...

It's been about 1.5 months since I finished my thru hike and I feel as if my life hasn't progressed anywhere.  In fact, I feel as if it's going backwards..  How is this possible?!

After returning home from Maine, I ended up living back home with my Mom, I came home to missing friends that moved away while I was gone; including friends that wrote me off of their lists since I was gone for so long, and I still have no job, despite several interviews that went well..  I even had two interviews for one position within a company!!  In the meantime, I have resorted to miscellaneous tasks for money (detailing cars, painting houses, selling items on eBay, etc.).  All while I'm trying to get back into the dating scene after being gone for 6 months.

It's hard for me to come back to all of these things.  Why?  When I was hiking the trail, I had so much freedom and accountability for myself.  I was on my own.  Whatever I wanted or needed, I made it happen.  I was self-sufficient.  But I wasn't living in a sustainable lifestyle -- things were so much simpler out there.  And "real life" is anything but simple.  It's hard to function in this so-called "real world" when you're at the mercy of so many "things" -- and there were far less of these "things" when I was hiking.  It's tough..  I have owned my own business.  I have hiked the entire Appalachian Trail.  I have a Bachelor's degree from an accredited University under my belt.  I have been at my *best* before.  I am not at my best now.  i.e.  Employers don't care about when you're at your best.  Do you have the two years of experience?  Yes or no?  No?  (next)..  For me, it's hard to put into words what lessons and experiences the trail taught me.  There certainly was experience to be had on the AT.  But employers have a difficult time understanding everything that hiking the AT entails and what you learn from doing it.  In fact, most people have the wrong concept in the minds when they think of someone hiking for almost 6 months.  No, I didn't "live off of the land."  No, I wasn't "alone."  And no, I'm not "insane."

In short, I am longing to start something new with my life..  Longing to start a career path so I can make the money necessary to have things that make me self-sufficient (again).  I would like my own place, a decent car that was made in this decade and not the previous two, and perhaps some new, refreshing friends to throw into the mix.

Obviously, I'm in low point.  But I had low points when I was on the trail.  So what's different now?  I suppose that when I was hiking, I had a clear cut goal.  Maine.  Katahdin. This journey.  I knew that if I kept walking, I would get there.  Now, I blindly send applications to companies and there is no gauge as to if I'm making progress or not..  I'm uncertain when the new life I'm longing for will come to fruition.  If there's only one thing the trail taught me, it was to keep chipping away at the big goal; making smaller goals that would ultimately lead to the big picture.  Even though I'm unsure of my current progress, I shall tell myself that progress is being made..

The world is a big place.  Where do I want to go?  What do I want to do?  Answer:  I'm not sure.  Ugh.

That's a Wrap...

So that's it.. my thru hike is officially over.  I summited Katahdin on September 21st. and it was a sunny Class 1 Day!

In short, I continuously hiked 2,181 miles from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mt. Katahdin in Maine -- over the course of 5 months & 18 days (4/03 - 9/21).

But A LOT happened in those 5 months and 18 days.  More things than I can begin to put into words.  Magical things.  Happy things.  Sad things.  Frustrating things.  Things that have definitely changed me.  I feel confident in saying that I had the experience of a lifetime while thru hiking the AT. And now it's over so quickly -- leaving me scrambling to come to terms with what I just did for the past 5 months and 18 days.  You would think that being on the trail day in and day out, I would have plenty of time to think about it.  Truth is, I spent most of my time entertaining whatever came to my mind, watching where I placed my feet and hands (especially in NH & ME) and not analyzing my thru hike -- because it wasn't over.  I wanted to be in the moment.  But now is the time for reflection.

The beauty of a thru hike is of many things.  Entertaining whatever comes to your mind is quite liberating.  Just being able to think.  Free of any distractions and outside influences.  No television, no music, no games.  If a sad thought came to my mind, I thought about why I was sad... connecting the dots in my past; whether I wanted to or not.  But all of what I mentioned above is geared towards when I was by myself -- whether hiking or alone in my tent.  What about the social aspect of the trail?

The AT has an awesome subculture that has now sucked me in for good.  All the trail angels, the trail magic, the festivals... it's down-right magical.  But you might be asking yourself what's so magical about a bunch of strangers and this mysterious Appalachian Trail?  Magical because it was strangers, yes, strangers, that did nice things for other strangers.  Whether it was a past thru hiker providing trail magic to a prospecting thru hiker, a hiker helping another hiker, or someone that knew very little about the AT but gave me rides in and out of town.  Or the woman in Tyringham, Massachusetts that let me sit on her porch so I could take a break out of the pouring rain.  Or the family that took in nine hikers so we could all wait out hurricane Irene.  There's SO many acts of kindness that I experienced in the past 5 months that it restored my faith in humanity.  And that's another thing that's magical about the AT... you rarely get acts of kindness and the sense of community elsewhere that is similar.

However, there is one thing about a thru hike that bothers me.  It's that I can't comprehend the trail as a whole.  I try to remember back to the start of my journey in Georgia, North Carolina, Tennessee.  It seems so far away -- because it is.  I hiked for almost 6 months!!  Even though I can easily remember what went on in the "early days", I can't fathom how the trail started to change me back then.  When I was in GA, NC, and TN the grand ol' times just rolled along endlessly.  The South was loaded with awesome food, seemingly endless trail magic, lofty mountains, hospitality, Trail Days in Damascus, VA (enough said), and the list goes on.  The South will always have a special place in my heart because, for me, the subculture of the AT is the strongest in the South.  I attribute this to thousands of hikers that start in Georgia and try to successfully thru hike.  As I moved Northward up the trail, the amount of thru hikers were less and less.  Many folks don't make it because of how they're tested.  And it wasn't until the long days in Virginia and the trial and tribulation days in Pennsylvania that I started to be tested.

When I say that I can't comprehend the trail as a whole, it's the people I met (from all over the world), the fun times, the sad times, the mental, physical, and emotional strain.  What did I obtain from it all?  To be honest, I don't have an answer right this instant as to how the trail has changed me for the long run.  As for adjusting to "normal" society since being home for a few days... everything is an overload and I'm sometimes frustrated that things aren't always as simple as just being out on the trail..  Even when I was on the trail and would go into town I would be overwhelmed by the amount of choices in food and beverages.  Now that I'm done my thru hike for good, I'm still overwhelmed but appreciate the amount of variety.

Times were a lot simpler back then..  I remember the days of misery when a simple can of Coke perked me up.  I remember the kindness of strangers leaving drinking water at road crossings when there wasn't any water for miles.  When I think back on my hike, the pain, the suffering, the misery, the loneliness... they're not the first to come to mind.  I mainly remember how goofy we all were, how uniting the trail can be, and how alive I felt.  It amazes me that when I wanted to quit -- there were multiple times -- I remembered the invigorating, strong, and steady wind on top of the balds in the South where you could see for miles in every direction.  I remembered just how far I had come, in distance and in myself.  I remembered the good times with the bad ones...  The breathtaking scenery...  How a bad day could so easily melt away when you looked for the magic in life.  That's why I marched on.  I felt so alive.  I rarely woke up with Maine or Katahdin on my mind.  No.. I took it day by day.  Savoring each memory as it was being made.  The AT made me realize that I should cherish every moment.  -- If life is one continuous journey, then the ups and the downs are a critical part of the experience.  You can gain something from everything.  Even if you're being tested to the breaking point.

For me, this journey was never really about Maine or Katahdin.  No... I wanted to see the nooks and crannies of small town America, tucked away in the mountains.  I wanted to see breath-taking scenery and have an awesome time doing it.  I simply wanted an adventure that reduced life to it's simplest forms.  i.e.  My interactions with people meant a lot more when I was on the trail.  No one had any hidden agendas.  It was just good ol' fashioned conversation and interaction.  Now that it's all over, I miss it.  I really do.  Just the fact that I was only # 372 out of thousands that tried to reach Katahdin, ME from Springer Mt., GA shows the difficulty of this journey.  My friends on the trail certainly made each day more memorable.  And aside from how simple life is on the trail, I'll miss my friends just as much.

Nonetheless, it was the experience of a lifetime.

KATAHDIN.  Northern terminus of the AT.  Georgia to Maine.

Ford It!

Well here I am in Stratton, ME! Officially less than 200 miles!! The past few days have been, honestly, miserable. It has rained the better part of the past 3 days and everything I have is moist. Some of the best views in Maine (the Saddlebacks and Crocker) were socked in with blowing rain that had some sleet mixed in... yes, SLEET. It's turned noticeably cooler the past few days.. In turn, the fall colors are starting to come out but will be more noticeable once I cross over Bigelow and the elevations lower further north... turning the mostly the coniferous trees into deciduous. But let me go back to the recent weather.. Maine is known for its rugged terrain and wilderness experience. What better way to fully indulge in the wilderness experience by having to ford ''streams'' and rivers! The waterways here in Maine have been high since Irene blew through and the daily rain paired with severe thunderstorms have kept them high -- so high that the water has actually washed away highway bridges!! So as you can imagine the smallest of streams are overflowing; which has made fording them an interesting challenge! In dry weather, you would take your shoes off and ford with your camp shoes, but the trail has literally been a stream with soupy mud holes as deep as my mid-calf. All day long my feet are wet with cold squishy socks. Therefore, for better traction and stability, I just keep my trail runners on while fording (it gets all the mud out, plus they look brand new afterward!). The worst ford was a little past my waist. This didn't make me too uncomfortable as the current wasn't too strong but some other crossings have had stronger current but slightly lower water levels. Why don't they build bridges?! Turns out that the ice on the streams and rivers gets so high in wintertime that it wipes out the bridges that were once there... Harsh environment, eh? Next stop is the infamous trail town, Monson!! Then it's into the 100 mile wilderness, which comes to an end at the base of Katahdin!!!! Still have some work to put in, however...

The bootlegged 2,000 mile marker (which was in the wrong spot...)

Welcome to MAINE!

That's right!  I'm in Maine!  My final state.  The home stretch.  The toughest terrain I've seen yet.  There shall be no coasting to the finish line...

MAINE!  It's rugged.  It's tough.  It's... so different.

Where to begin??  When I crossed into Maine it was almost surreal.  Since starting in Georgia on April 3rd, I've been telling everyone that has asked that I'm going to Maine.  And now I'm here.  With only 233 miles left, I'm chomping at the bit.  Truth be told, I'm ready to be done.  Ready to start some new things in life and move on with some others...  But I'm getting ahead of myself... Must finish the trail first!!  Finish what you start.
After waiting out hurricane Irene with four 'zero days', I hit the trail feeling refreshed yet still tired.  Is this possible?!  Anyway, the damage from the storm was present on the trail.  The shear power of water is just amazing.  The trail was heavily eroded, since the trail acts as a stream in heavy rain, some rock steps washed out and blow-downs were everywhere! I'm glad I wasn't in the woods during the storm!

The first day out of Gorham, NH, where I had left off, was fairly easy and I managed a 17 mile day.  But when I crossed into Maine the next day, Maine would flex it's rugged and tough muscles.  The Mahoosucs made me long for the Whites of New Hampshire.  I don't know what it was about the Mahoosucs... but that section had some of the most steep, slick, and energy-draining terrain I've seen in 1,900 miles.  Energy-draining = ravenous appetite.  Traversing roots, rocks, rock slabs, boulders the size of small homes and SUVs, mud holes, high streams, etc. ... it takes it out of ya!  In fact, I literally had 1/4 of a Nutella jar and one pasta side dinner left in my food bag when I arrived in Andover.  That's the lowest my food bag has been on this entire hike!!

So, I've established that Maine is difficult.  However, I don't really mind... The first of the leaves are starting to turn and a few early leaves have made it to the ground in red, orange, and yellow colors.  The lakes and ponds are simply amazing.  The shear rugged terrain and the very rural towns are something new as well.  While in Andover, locals rode ATVs and tractors down the street in the stoplight absent town.

I'm looking to finish between Sept. 20-25th.  Obviously, it's still hard to tell exactly my finish date until I arrive in Monson.  Like I mentioned above, I'm excited to finish but am sad that my hike is starting to dwindle to a close.  So many friends and memories have been made. It's hard to imagine that this [ridiculous] lifestyle will be over before I know it!  I mean, really, hiking for 6 months?!  Geez...

MAINE -- It's "the way life should be"

The Whites

I shall describe my traverse of The Whites in this entry:

Mt. Moosilauke was certainly a rough introduction to The Whites and after I descended the mountain, I was held up in Lincoln, NH (at Chet's) for a day letting the weather clear out.  I left Lincoln with clear skies and had a trail magic ride back to the trail from Dan, who also let us use his hot tub and heated pool at his condo before leaving town.  Sweet!!
Climbing out of Kinsman Notch, the second mountain in the range is Kinsman.  It wasn't until ascending Kinsman did I realize that the brutal ascents in The Whites require hoisting yourself and your 30+ lb pack up 1 - 3+ foot rock "steps"... all the while grunting, moaning, groaning, pushing, pulling, cussing, scrapping, slipping, and sliding.  The views are certainly amazing but the climbs and descents are just brutal.  Even the descents require all the things I listed above.  The Whites have some of the most "seat of your pants" hiking I've ever done.  In some places, I would put my trekking poles away and skid down rock slabs and steep steps on my ass end.  It certainly is a different type of hiking that thru hikers are used to... it requires full concentration, unlike some other parts of the trail that you could almost hike mindlessly.
Another aspect of The Whites is that the AMC (Appalachian Mountain (Money) Club) has a stranglehold on the trail(s) through the National Forest.  Reason being?  The AMC has a system of huts that are mainly used by day and short section hikers.  Thus, shelters and campsites are rare along the AT in The Whites.  In part, the terrain will not allow such things.  Thru hikers are allowed to stay at the huts if they do work for stay on behalf of the croo.  Plus, we get to feast on leftovers!!  I stayed at 4 out of the 8 huts and was excited to have work for stay as part of my experience of hiking the trail.  The only problem is that the hut "croo" can be a little demeaning to thru hikers.  Most chores at the huts are sweeping, doing dishes, etc.  However, the most ridiculous work for stay I completed was at Lakes of the Clouds where I had to scrub black pots and pans to a silvery shine.... while the hut croo played Uno.
I found myself at Lakes of the Clouds after departing Mizpah hut, which is below tree-line.  Once I was above tree-line, on my way to Lakes of the Clouds, the weather turned very, very sour.  Visibility was all of 20-30 feet with winds approaching 50-60 mph.  I was literally blown off of the trail several times!  Usually, the wind is invigorating but this was just scary.  After finally making it to the hut, I learn that the wind-speed register has blown off the roof and the winds on Mt. Washington (just 1,200 feet in elevation and 1.4 miles above the hut) were nearing 90 mph.  I decide that getting blown off trail isn't really for me and therefore, I end my day at 11:30 AM with only 5 miles completed for the day.  It is what it is.
It was days like that one that made my traverse of The Whites take a tad longer than anticipated, but I'm not sure my body would have withstood me doing it any faster.  Today, I pulled a long day into the town of Gorham, NH and my knees HURT from the week spent hiking some of the most difficult terrain along the AT.  In fact, everything hurts.  Hips, knees, back... It's all just tired.  Zero day here in Gorham!  Woot!
In closing, The Whites have some of the most beautiful views along the entire trail.  For instance, Franconia Ridge was just breathtaking!  I'm so thankful I had clear weather on that ridge!  For me, it was on Franconia where the beauty of The Whites really shined, literally (before the bad weather came).  Another area in The Whites is the famous Presidential Range.  It's all above tree-line and my traverse was half and half... half clear weather and half socked in.  I'll take it!  Some hikers have no views in The Whites at all!  It's rather amazing how quickly the weather can change.  It would be socked in one minute, sunny the next, then back to socked in.  And the wind... the wind!!  I'll just put it short, sweet, and to the point: that wind is FIERCE above treeline!!
Less than 20 miles from the Maine border and less than 300 miles to go!  Weeee!!

Intro into The Whites

The Whites have some of the most stunning views on the entire 2,181 mile-long Appalachian Trail.  You're above tree line in an alpine environment!  It's certainly a very unique place.  However, the beauty of The Whites can only be admired if the weather is clear.  This was not the case when I decided to hike the first mountain in The Whites (Mt. Moosilauke).

The day started out fine.  It was overcast and sprinkling rain when I left the shelter at the base of the mountain.  After about an hour of ascending, the rain started to pick up.   I decided I was committed and didn't turn back.   About two hours later, I find myself above tree line, nearing the summit, with fog / clouds blowing past like speeding cars, and the wind driving the rain so hard, it felt like sleet pellets hitting my skin.   After trying to take some pictures by the weather-beaten sign that read: "Mt. Moosilauke, 4,802 ft." I sprinted to the other side of the summit to get down to tree line, where I could be semi-protected from the weather.

A few minutes later, I cross paths with some section hikers that are slack-packing going SOBO.   I tell them to be very careful on the exposed summit and they tell me to be careful descending into Kinsman notch.  Touche.  I had heard from several people that the descent on Moosilauke is one of the most dangerous and difficult in the entire Whites (more so when wet!!), but nothing I heard or read could prepare myself for what I was about to go through trying to come down.

After taking a break at the shelter located just before the near vertical descent, I start picking my way down the mountain.   Little did I know that descending the remaining 1.5 miles to the road would take me almost 2 hours.  1.5 miles in 2 hours.  The rocks were slick, the wooden steps, and steel rebar installed on the rock slabs were slick, as well.   About halfway down, the trail came parallel with a rushing waterfall literally inches away.   I'm sure it was pretty but didn't dare take my eyes off the trail to observe.  I was too focused on getting down safely, as the trail itself was a waterfall.

The sign on the trail AFTER I descended Moosilauke...

The Weight

Pounds.  Ounces.  Grams.  It all adds up.  Everything weighs something.

I'm reminded of "the weight" because I recently picked up my cold weather gear, as I'm about to head into The Whites where the weather is dynamic.   And I feel the extra weight of my heavier sleeping bag and more clothes.  To reduce weight, I only carry what I absolutely need.  For instance, I dropped my iPod in Hanover, just to name one item.

Hiking the AT certainly puts "the weight" into perspective.  In other words, what is it worth to me to carry "Item X" up and down mountains all day?

Everything in our lives has weight; from our relationships to the material things in our lives.  Obviously, some items have more weight than others.  But the lesson still fits.  We can only carry so much before the weight starts to take its toll (become uncomfortable, if you're carrying a pack).

During my hike, I've thought about what weight I could toss from my life when I get back home.  I'm actually excited to start some cleaning when I return.  Until then, I've cut things out of my life while I'm on the trail.   My contact list in my phone is smaller, for example.  Hiking the AT makes different marks on different people but almost everyone downsizes their life afterwards.  It's logical.  Living in the woods for 5-6 months makes you realize what you really need (or not need) to live.  Also, when you strip most of the [unnecessary] weight away, you appreciate the luxuries in life a lot more than before you started your hike.

I encourage you to cut some weight from your life.  Chances are you'll feel better. :-)

Running on E

HI all!   I've arrived in Hanover, NH and 1,740 miles are under my trail runners!  Well, in total, because I'm on my third pair of trail runners.  I strolled along the highway to the VT - NH border with a huge smile on my face and an Arizona tea in one hand that I picked up in Norwich, VT.  Several people honked and waved... knowing what it takes to make it this far.  While posing for my picture by the border sign, a granite "VT - NH" engraved in the middle of the bridge over the Connecticut River, I yelled to an unsuspecting motorist "this is the best day ever!"  And I really felt as if it was the best day ever.

New Hampshire... less than 450 miles to go to Katahdin... 1,740 completed... my body is starting to give...

It takes a tremendous amount of energy... physically, mentally, emotionally to come this far.  For the most part, I've mastered the mental and emotional aspect.  However, the physical part I have little control over.  Almost all hikers that make it to this point are starting to become famished.  Most are burning muscle and some have prominent bone structures in their faces.  Whenever NOBOs cross paths with SOBOs at this point on the trail, we notice how fresh their bodies look and perform.  We NOBOs have stained, ripped, torn, and dirty gear that we're carrying on our emaciated bodies.  The SOBOs still have an unseasoned look... even after just coming out of the most difficult part of the entire trail, The Whites.  I wonder if that's how I looked when I was only 400-500 miles into this journey...
I recently found out that if your sweat smells of ammonia, you're burning muscle.   Guess how I smell?!   When I started my hike, I weighed about 130 lbs.  Currently, I'm around 120 lbs.   I simply don't have much to give up anymore and I'm almost to a point where my body is just tired.  Thus, I simply can't do big mile days anymore.  Yet, that is a moot point because you can't do big days in The Whites, but up to about Massachusetts, I used to crank out 20+ a day like it was nothing... but not anymore.  The terrain of Vermont wasn't particularly difficult, but I felt like it was due to the condition of my body.
My physical condition isn't going to dampen my mood because I'm still having a blast on this journey!  Like I mentioned above, today was one of the best days ever!!  I'm going to take some time off in Hanover to regroup and sort some things out... and then I'm tackling NH!
I believe that if I continue to stuff my face with calorie-dense food whenever possible, I should be alright.

Ben & Jerry's, anyone?!

New Pictures!

New pictures have been added! Enjoy.. Click on the "Pics from the Trail" link to the right. :-)

Mountains..

Mountains... yea...  I remember those!!
I'm in Vermont, the Green Mountain State!  And it's beautiful up here!  Finally back in the mountains!  I wish I could see it up here in fall!  Oh wait... I'll get to see Maine in the fall.   Which is just as nice!
The elevations are starting to ramp up!  They started a little ways back in Connecticut.   In CT, I climbed Mt. Everett, the first mountain over 2,000 feet since very early Pennsylvania.
Now in Vermont, the elevations are going over 3,000 feet.   The last time I saw elevations over 3,000 feet were back in Shenandoah in Virginia... almost 600 miles ago!!
Things about my hike are just getting better and better.  No complaint, except that I miss some of my friends that I met way long ago.  Hope I get to see some of them before I summit!

Trail Angels

I've been really memorized by some recent events.. so I shall write about these experiences.

Some people along the trail are simply magnificent. They welcome hikers into their homes, not for money or because they have to, but because they want to. Inherently, people are good. (so what goes wrong?)

In the past two days, I have been caught in pouring rain and hail storms.  Everything is soaked!!   When it's pouring rain, all I mainly do is keep moving forward and not stopping unless it is absolutely necessary.  Sometimes, there are shelters along the trail that you can take cover in to be out of the rain for a snack break or whatever, but not always.
Naturally, I was on a stretch where shelters were sparse and the rain was coming down hard.  I needed to take a break and eat lunch, but unless I wanted to sit in the rain and get the inside of my pack soaked when I open it to dig out my food bag, it was hopeless.  I came to a road crossing and saw a house with a covered front porch.   I knocked on the door and the woman that answered was all too happy to let me sit on her porch and eat my lunch while I told her about my hike.  She even gave me a Coke and put my wet and cold clothes in the dryer!!
I encountered the same hospitality when I came to Dalton, MA.  Myself and a couple of other hikers got caught in a hail storm for about an hour or two and were soaked and miserable.  We walked up to a gas station and the attendant asks "you guys looking for the Bird Cage?"  Umm, sure... (he must know hikers when he sees them...).  A middle-aged man (Rob) rolls up in a van and takes us to his house where he let us shower, did our laundry, took us to resupply, and dropped us off at an all-you-can-eat buffet.  AND we can spend the night?  WOW...
It's people like Rob --the ones with the big hearts-- that make the world a better place.  Furthermore, it's experiences like this that shape a thru hike into something that you just have to do to "get".  When I try to explain my hike to people and how it changes you, most of the time I sense they don't fully understand just what it is that I am trying to convey.
The AT harbors a wonderful community.  And that is all.

You're Funny

So, here I am in Salisbury, CT.  I've tossed in the towel early today, as I simply can't hike in this heat.  It's unbearable.

My past few blog entries have been on the serious side.  Therefore, I thought I would lighten up the mood a little bit by writing about funny things that thru hikers do.

You know you're a thru hiker if/when:

- You strike up a conversation with strangers about pointless things

- When ordering in a restaurant, you ask how big it is to determine if it's going to be enough

- You think about how you're going to write your witty shelter register entry

- You get pack separation anxiety

- You stop hiking and think about picking up that peanut M&M someone dropped on the trail

- You can smell day hikers' "freshness".... is that Tide?

- Your own funk makes you gag

- You go days without a shower and think nothing of it (sponging off in a stream is good enough)

- You walk past views because they all look the same after awhile

- You play games to make the time go by (count how long it takes to pass 100 white blazes)

- You find humor in the most ridiculous things (bathroom humor in the privy, anyone??)
- You find yourself not using your table manners

- You think nothing of going into town looking like bum

- (and you think nothing of approaching people when you look that way)

- When in town, all you want to know is where the post office & grocery store are... as your eyes glaze over at the thought of a hamburger and coke

- You entertain one or more of the eight topic questions from curious people:

    - Do you carry a gun/weapon?

    - What did you do before you came out here?

    - What are you going to do when you finish?

    - What do you do for food?

    - How old are you?

    - What do your parents think of this?

    - How long is your hike going to take?  "....what?!"

    - Do you do this alone?!

Therefore, as you can see, hiking the trail can be quite humorous... to some.  It's those that notice the magic more than others that cherish this journey!

Ridin' Solo

This hike of mine has gone from all the company I could ever want in the South, to times where I camp alone in the North.  The attrition rate has certainly taken its toll and the further I move North, there are less thru hikers.   It's that simple.  I camped alone last night and it wasn't the first time, either.  I don't really mind it and, in fact, I pride myself on my independence from other people.  But there are times where I do get lonely...
I've come to the conclusion that I'm often between "bubbles" of hikers.  Since I have many friends on the trail ahead of me and behind me, I am aware of their location most of the time via their shelter register entries.   Most hikers will roll as a group, often hiking together... in a single line formation. But I don't want to be dependent of a group.   If I'm around some of my friends, fine.  If not, fine as well.
I don't mind hiking solo because it's hard to find someone that exactly matches my hiking pace and I don't feel like looking at someone's calf muscles all day.  Or hearing steady footsteps behind me.

Another issue I wanted to write about is WATER!

Water is a necessity out here!  It's been so hot and humid with temperatures in the 90s and due to surpass 100 in the next few days.  Unfortunately, (good) water is hard to come by.  The streams in NJ and NY were a black/red color.. mmm.. yummy...   The piped springs that were so abundant in the South have disappeared all together up here.  In NY, there are some water pumps along the trail.  However, the water that comes out, after you manually pump for a good while, is a solid brown / rust color and smells of sulfur.  Also, nowadays, my guide books lists "swampy areas" and meager streams (which sometimes don't exist because they're dried up) as water sources.
The people of NY were so kind.  I lost count of how many times trail angels left fresh water in numerous gallon jugs at road crossings and, sometimes, not even near road crossings.  They don't have to do that but the fact that they did made me emotional at some points...   Trail angels know that hiking in this heat without good water is virtually impossible and potentially a very serious health concern.   If it wasn't gallon jugs at road crossings, it was private residences and businesses close to the trail that would allow hikers to retrieve water from their outside spigots.   Sometimes, when I would be retrieving water from an outside spigot, I would get asked "how do you do it...?!  I can't even imagine..."  I reply with "I just... do."

Yep, I just do.

So, with that update, I'm eating what remains of this chicken salad sandwich and then hitting the trail again!  Peace! ;-)

What's NEW?

New Jersey and New York!  That's what's NEW!  I've completed my 8th state (New Jersey) and now I'm currently in my 9th state (New York)!  Once Pennsylvania was completed, Sparkplug and I, as well as a few other hikers, went to have some drinks to celebrate being done with one of the most hated states along the trail. I finally got to have a martini!
I left the Delaware Water Gap in high spirits, happy to be crossing into New Jersey.  I did a small section in NJ last summer and it was spectacular!  Therefore, I knew what awaited me there:  glacial lakes and ponds, bears, and countless miles to be seen from the ridges.   It's like a completely different world once you cross into NJ!  Lakes start to dot the landscape (all the way to Maine) and cliff walking becomes the norm.  However, when the trail isn't on the ridges, it dips down to swampy areas.  In one section, there was a mile long boardwalk over a swampy area, affectionately dubbed by hikers as the "New Jersey Boardwalk"!  There were also fire lookout towers that provided 360 degree views.  I camped at the base of Catfish Fire tower and watched the sunset.  The picture below is from the lookout nest at the top of the tower.

Also, New Jersey is loaded with wildlife!  I saw three bears, a huge black snake, and a porcupine.  NJ had a lot of variety, but I won't miss the swarming mosquitoes.  At night, in certain low-lying areas, you could hear them buzzing and swarming around in the swamp and around your tent.  Needless to say, I didn't stay in any shelters in NJ.
I'm currently in New York!  I crossed into NY on a giant slab of rock atop Prospect Rock, with stunning views of the massive Greenwood Lake.  This should have been a hint to me what the trail would be like in NY.  So far, the trail in NY has been strenuous, with constant ups and downs along the ridges.  All the while, hiking on rock slabs.  I'm not "riding the ridge", per say, I'm going up and over them--and they're tightly packed and steep!!  It's been gorgeous though!  Views of the NYC skyline (the trail comes within 34 miles of the city) can be seen from Bear Mountain and some parts of the trail in NY have thick spruce/pine trees that block out the sun and make you feel like you should be somewhere in Oregon.
I'll cross the Hudson River on the Bear Mountain bridge tomorrow and 1,400 miles will have been completed!  The area around the Hudson is the lowest elevation on the entire trail: 124 feet above sea level.  That means it's all uphill to Mt. Washington (6,288 feet), right?!

Reeaalllyy looking forward to the upcoming parts of the trail, especially VT, NH, & ME!

When The Going Gets Rocky

Where to begin?!   I'll start by saying: "I'm out of Pennsylvania!!" Woot, woot! Never have I ever hated a trail state so much and wanted out!  Not even in Virginia!  The trail in PA really got to me-- in a bad way.  It was the first time I seriously thought about abandoning my thru hike.
The trail through PA is a stout ~220 miles.  However, the amount of miles didn't bother me; it was what the trail had to offer that did.  In PA, there's limited views in the entire state, the trail is laden with pointy and wobbly rocks, it's poison ivy and tick heaven, the dreaded "green tunnel" effect is present due to the limited views, and the heat and humidity are oppressive.   Not to mention, since I had to take a week off, I was behind virtually everyone I had met since Georgia.  When I returned to the trail, I was eager to meet new people but was bummed I was behind my friends.  Yet, I did met a few new people but due to my accelerated pace, I caught up with a few old faces!  One of them being Sparkplug!!  I love that woman.   Her and I celebrated being done with PA by having some drinks here in DWG.  I finally got to have an appletini!
Therefore, even though I blew through PA, it was a struggle to do so.  Believe it or not, one day, I did 28 miles!  After months of hiking, I knew I was physically capable of doing big miles but some days it was mentally hard to put one foot in front of the other.
When thru hikers are having a hard time, the standard suggestion is to just stick it out and things will get better.  So, I kept hiking but was still running short on motivation.  Not knowing what to do, I reached out to a few friends and a past thru hiker (Monkey). Monkey gave me the best advice ever! He told me that when he hiked the trail last year and he had hard days, he just danced like a fool. That's right. Danced. Like. A. Fool. And he suggested I do the same.  I remember it so clearly, too-- I turned on my phone and saw the messages come in.  I read his message and that was it, game time!   I dug out my iPod and got to dancing-- right on the trail!   Never have I had such a change of mindset out here!
I'm taking the day off here in DWG and then it's on to New Jersey! NJ has a short ~75 miles and then I'll be in NY! Woah, these states are gonna fly by...

The Pinnacle

Back in the Saddle

Wow, does it feel good to be back!  I didn't realize how much I enjoyed being out here until an injury sidelined me and sent me home for a week to rest.  Surprisingly, I settled in at home fairly easy and was fortunate enough to see some friends that won't be there when I return...  But like I said, I'm back!  I picked up the trail right where I had left off, which was right outside Harper's Ferry, WV.   I was prepared to hike alone, away from any group, because I assumed that everyone I knew was ahead of me!  However, I wasn't hiking an hour before I ran into three older guys I hadn't seen since Damascus, VA!  Buffalo Bobby, Trolley Stop, & Guardian.  Funny how things work out.
My days hiking have been long and fairly easy.  I've managed to average over 20 miles a day since I started back.  The trail through PA so far has had it all - meadows, rock mazes, rocks, strolling trail through rhododendrons, etc.  The terrain in southern PA isn't near as brutal as the terrain in the northern part of the state.  The ankle-busting rocks await me...  The rocks are so bad, we hikers call this state Rocksylvania.
The trail through Pennsylvania is famous for its rocks but there is also another topic that Pennsylvania is famous for: The Half Gallon Challenge.  All up and down the trail, from Georgia to Maine, hikers have invented "challenges" to help keep things interesting and rewarding.  Such challenges are the 4 state challenge (cross the state borders of VA, WV, MD, & PA in 24 hours), the pancake challenge, and of course, the Half Gallon Challenge - which is quite possibly the most ridiculous challenge ever - to eat an entire half gallon of ice cream at the midpoint of the trail in Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  I had been dreaming since Georgia about attempting this challenge with cookie dough ice cream but got stuck with banana split.   It took 1 hour 15 mins. but I got it all down... but not with plenty of gagging and stomach pains.  I got my wooden spoon that says "Member of Half Gal. Club"!
This evening I'm staying at the historic Doyle Hotel in Duncannon.  The hotel is over 100 years old.  The Doyle is a thru hiker staple and it's almost assumed hikers will at least stop in to check things out when coming through town.  The owners and operators, Vicky and Pat, really love hikers!  Vicky took my picture to add to the hiker binder for 2011 and I could tell that they both enjoy serving up good food and cold beer to all the hikers!
All in all it's so good to be back and I look forward to the second half of this journey!  "Only" 1,042.5 miles left!  ;-)

Half Gallon Challenge... Blah!

Turn of Events

No rain, no pain, no Maine.  That's the thru hiker mantra!!   I've hiked through the rain and the pain, so technically I should see Maine... right?  Right?!
Remember me mentioning in the "Epic Buffet" entry that I thought I had sustained a groin pull? Come to find out that is not true, but I have sustained what I'll just refer to as a "guy injury".   In short, it feels like someone has swiftly kicked me in my nuts, even though no one did.  After spending part of the night in the emergency room, the doctor has given me orders to rest for about a week and ice my testes.  I now find myself unwillingly back in Delaware.
As you might imagine, I'm not too fond of this new situation.  However, I know that if I want a chance of finishing this hike without jeopardizing my own health, I must rest for the time being.  Of course, it's just hard to do that.
At the beginning of this hike, I hated my body and my body hated me.  Needless to say, I've hiked through pain (and the rain).  Pain that shot through my knees back in Georgia.  Pain that radiated from my heels because they had been rubbed raw in Virginia.  I have mere aches now-- good pains, if you will, compared to when I started hiking down in Georgia.  However, this pain was different.  I'm used to "pushing" but stopping before I'm doing damage to my body.  After over 1,000 miles, you know your limits.  Yet, the pain I was experiencing felt as if my body was already damaged.
Nothing to do but wait it out and resume hiking in a few days... I miss it already.  "It" is everything from the views to the friends I've made.

Rays of sunshine after a thundershower in Shenandoah

Milestones

How is a huge goal attainable?  A goal such as hiking 2,100+ miles from Georgia to Maine?  One word: milestones.
There's days where my milestone is the next shelter or a stream or a road crossing.  Sometimes, it would be the next town or the next state border.  You would be surprised how little I think of Maine or Mt. Katahdin.  I must deal with each day as it unfolds, as it's often that my daily plans change.  But I always remember that little goals lead to big goals!!
I've accomplished several milestones within the last 24 hours.  The state of Virginia-- all 550 miles --is now behind me.   I passed the 1,000 mile mark.   I made it to the mental halfway point, Harper's Ferry, WV.  I should be guzzling that champagne right now!
It's customary that when thru hikers reach Harper's Ferry that they stop by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) and have their picture taken!  I was number 483 for 2011.  The ATC then archives these photos.  I enjoyed searching through the archives for past hikers that I know or talked to when I was planning my hike.
For those that don't know, the ATC oversees the entire trail for protection, maintenance, and conservation.   The ATC needs all the help it can get to preserve the AT and the surrounding areas. Everything that the AT has given me is difficult to put into words.  There is still over 1,200 miles of trail remaining, and I'm sure the AT will surprise me with revelations on the next half of this trip!
Hiking on into Maryland tomorrow for a short 42 miles and then it's on into Rocksylvania!   :-)

The "Epic Buffet"

To celebrate me reaching the half-way-but-not-half-way point, my friends Skyline and Rodman came to visit me just shy of Harper's Ferry, WV. They met me at the Bear's Den Hostel to pick me up and take me out to dinner at the fabulous buffet at the race track and casino over in Charles Town, WV. I was looking forward to seeing them because I can "talk trail" with them and they not have glazed looks on their faces. Someone that understands just how hard thru-hiking can be! Yay!
They arrived just in time too, because "The Roller Coaster" was firmly kicking my ass-- so much so that my beloved trail nurse (Sparkplug) confirmed to me that I've pulled a groin muscle. Fun times to be had on The Roller Coaster for sure... Oh, so you may be asking yourself "what is The Roller Coaster?". Well, it's 13.5 miles of trail that ascend and descend over 10 peaks. None of the peaks go over 1,500 feet in elevation, but the climbs are very steep, super rocky, and have tons of roots to trip up your feet. Skyline tells me that the ATC was forced into making The Roller Coaster because the trail used to be on the road in an affluent area and people in their mcmansions got tired of hikers ringing their doorbells asking for water. **face palm** Glad to know that the state of Virginia is making me work to get to that West Virginia border.
Ok, back to this "Epic Buffet" (that's the real name). This buffet was out of control! I consumed BBQ ribs, chicken, and salmon, green beans, mac n cheese, hush puppies, salad, roasted mashed potatoes, prime rib, cookies, and creme brule. All three of us left satisfied and full!
On a sidenote, we hit a deer on the way back and miraculously there was no damage done to the van. However, even after all that I ate, my brain still acknowledged my hiker hunger because I thought about how I haven't had venison in awhile... Mmmm... venison..

Shenandoah

I have a love / hate relationship with the Shenandoah National Park.
The wildlife in the park isn't so wild.  The AT crosses Skyline Drive 24 times in the park!  I could hear traffic most of the day.  I was often within 0.1 mile of Skyline Drive.  The trail is a lot more populated in the park with day / section hikers. The trail itself was poorly maintained in some sections; so bad that I was bushwhacking for a short stretch. The spur and circuit trails were often more maintained and lead into more "wilderness-y" areas...  Also, there's fewer views on the AT than on Skyline Drive!  That's just wrong...
However, I saw my first rattlesnake and five black bears in Shenandoah!  I also saw tons of deer-- fawns and bucks in the velvet.  Surprisingly, Shenandoah is a wildlife mecca!  I also got to meet some really nice new people due to my newly slowed pace.  I wanted a change from hiking around the same people day in and day out.  For instance, Pigeon was doing trail magic for her friends Skid and Flame and I saw her a total of three times in the park.  I took my time, engaging her in conversation and waiting around to see what other hikers would take the short side trail to the parking lot where she was set up.  She reminded me of my love for Alaska with her "Alaska Makes Me Happy" t-shirt.  Pigeon told me of her time spent in Alaska as a nature guide of sorts and her cross-country drive from DC.  This woman rocks.
Aside from the wildlife and new people, I got to hike stretches of the AT that I had already done (no, I wasn't going to skip them!).  For me, re-hiking sections of trail already completed was a cool experience.  I tried to pinpoint places where I had stopped to pick and eat apples from the apple trees near Compton Peak.  It was difficult to pinpoint these places because of the overgrown summer vegetation and some places were scorched due to a wildfire in March.  But I think I nailed it...
Finally, the end of Shenandoah means that the end of Virginia is right around the corner!  I've been in this state for almost 40 days and over 500 miles!  On the whole, Virginia had some gorgeous scenery and diverse scenery at that. I walked through meadows, blossoming mountain laurel tunnels, over countless fence stiles and stream crossings, and boulder scrambles.  Virginia was nice and didn't really get old but I'm glad to be moving on to new territory!