The Whites

I shall describe my traverse of The Whites in this entry:

Mt. Moosilauke was certainly a rough introduction to The Whites and after I descended the mountain, I was held up in Lincoln, NH (at Chet's) for a day letting the weather clear out.  I left Lincoln with clear skies and had a trail magic ride back to the trail from Dan, who also let us use his hot tub and heated pool at his condo before leaving town.  Sweet!!
Climbing out of Kinsman Notch, the second mountain in the range is Kinsman.  It wasn't until ascending Kinsman did I realize that the brutal ascents in The Whites require hoisting yourself and your 30+ lb pack up 1 - 3+ foot rock "steps"... all the while grunting, moaning, groaning, pushing, pulling, cussing, scrapping, slipping, and sliding.  The views are certainly amazing but the climbs and descents are just brutal.  Even the descents require all the things I listed above.  The Whites have some of the most "seat of your pants" hiking I've ever done.  In some places, I would put my trekking poles away and skid down rock slabs and steep steps on my ass end.  It certainly is a different type of hiking that thru hikers are used to... it requires full concentration, unlike some other parts of the trail that you could almost hike mindlessly.
Another aspect of The Whites is that the AMC (Appalachian Mountain (Money) Club) has a stranglehold on the trail(s) through the National Forest.  Reason being?  The AMC has a system of huts that are mainly used by day and short section hikers.  Thus, shelters and campsites are rare along the AT in The Whites.  In part, the terrain will not allow such things.  Thru hikers are allowed to stay at the huts if they do work for stay on behalf of the croo.  Plus, we get to feast on leftovers!!  I stayed at 4 out of the 8 huts and was excited to have work for stay as part of my experience of hiking the trail.  The only problem is that the hut "croo" can be a little demeaning to thru hikers.  Most chores at the huts are sweeping, doing dishes, etc.  However, the most ridiculous work for stay I completed was at Lakes of the Clouds where I had to scrub black pots and pans to a silvery shine.... while the hut croo played Uno.
I found myself at Lakes of the Clouds after departing Mizpah hut, which is below tree-line.  Once I was above tree-line, on my way to Lakes of the Clouds, the weather turned very, very sour.  Visibility was all of 20-30 feet with winds approaching 50-60 mph.  I was literally blown off of the trail several times!  Usually, the wind is invigorating but this was just scary.  After finally making it to the hut, I learn that the wind-speed register has blown off the roof and the winds on Mt. Washington (just 1,200 feet in elevation and 1.4 miles above the hut) were nearing 90 mph.  I decide that getting blown off trail isn't really for me and therefore, I end my day at 11:30 AM with only 5 miles completed for the day.  It is what it is.
It was days like that one that made my traverse of The Whites take a tad longer than anticipated, but I'm not sure my body would have withstood me doing it any faster.  Today, I pulled a long day into the town of Gorham, NH and my knees HURT from the week spent hiking some of the most difficult terrain along the AT.  In fact, everything hurts.  Hips, knees, back... It's all just tired.  Zero day here in Gorham!  Woot!
In closing, The Whites have some of the most beautiful views along the entire trail.  For instance, Franconia Ridge was just breathtaking!  I'm so thankful I had clear weather on that ridge!  For me, it was on Franconia where the beauty of The Whites really shined, literally (before the bad weather came).  Another area in The Whites is the famous Presidential Range.  It's all above tree-line and my traverse was half and half... half clear weather and half socked in.  I'll take it!  Some hikers have no views in The Whites at all!  It's rather amazing how quickly the weather can change.  It would be socked in one minute, sunny the next, then back to socked in.  And the wind... the wind!!  I'll just put it short, sweet, and to the point: that wind is FIERCE above treeline!!
Less than 20 miles from the Maine border and less than 300 miles to go!  Weeee!!

Intro into The Whites

The Whites have some of the most stunning views on the entire 2,181 mile-long Appalachian Trail.  You're above tree line in an alpine environment!  It's certainly a very unique place.  However, the beauty of The Whites can only be admired if the weather is clear.  This was not the case when I decided to hike the first mountain in The Whites (Mt. Moosilauke).

The day started out fine.  It was overcast and sprinkling rain when I left the shelter at the base of the mountain.  After about an hour of ascending, the rain started to pick up.   I decided I was committed and didn't turn back.   About two hours later, I find myself above tree line, nearing the summit, with fog / clouds blowing past like speeding cars, and the wind driving the rain so hard, it felt like sleet pellets hitting my skin.   After trying to take some pictures by the weather-beaten sign that read: "Mt. Moosilauke, 4,802 ft." I sprinted to the other side of the summit to get down to tree line, where I could be semi-protected from the weather.

A few minutes later, I cross paths with some section hikers that are slack-packing going SOBO.   I tell them to be very careful on the exposed summit and they tell me to be careful descending into Kinsman notch.  Touche.  I had heard from several people that the descent on Moosilauke is one of the most dangerous and difficult in the entire Whites (more so when wet!!), but nothing I heard or read could prepare myself for what I was about to go through trying to come down.

After taking a break at the shelter located just before the near vertical descent, I start picking my way down the mountain.   Little did I know that descending the remaining 1.5 miles to the road would take me almost 2 hours.  1.5 miles in 2 hours.  The rocks were slick, the wooden steps, and steel rebar installed on the rock slabs were slick, as well.   About halfway down, the trail came parallel with a rushing waterfall literally inches away.   I'm sure it was pretty but didn't dare take my eyes off the trail to observe.  I was too focused on getting down safely, as the trail itself was a waterfall.

The sign on the trail AFTER I descended Moosilauke...

The Weight

Pounds.  Ounces.  Grams.  It all adds up.  Everything weighs something.

I'm reminded of "the weight" because I recently picked up my cold weather gear, as I'm about to head into The Whites where the weather is dynamic.   And I feel the extra weight of my heavier sleeping bag and more clothes.  To reduce weight, I only carry what I absolutely need.  For instance, I dropped my iPod in Hanover, just to name one item.

Hiking the AT certainly puts "the weight" into perspective.  In other words, what is it worth to me to carry "Item X" up and down mountains all day?

Everything in our lives has weight; from our relationships to the material things in our lives.  Obviously, some items have more weight than others.  But the lesson still fits.  We can only carry so much before the weight starts to take its toll (become uncomfortable, if you're carrying a pack).

During my hike, I've thought about what weight I could toss from my life when I get back home.  I'm actually excited to start some cleaning when I return.  Until then, I've cut things out of my life while I'm on the trail.   My contact list in my phone is smaller, for example.  Hiking the AT makes different marks on different people but almost everyone downsizes their life afterwards.  It's logical.  Living in the woods for 5-6 months makes you realize what you really need (or not need) to live.  Also, when you strip most of the [unnecessary] weight away, you appreciate the luxuries in life a lot more than before you started your hike.

I encourage you to cut some weight from your life.  Chances are you'll feel better. :-)

Running on E

HI all!   I've arrived in Hanover, NH and 1,740 miles are under my trail runners!  Well, in total, because I'm on my third pair of trail runners.  I strolled along the highway to the VT - NH border with a huge smile on my face and an Arizona tea in one hand that I picked up in Norwich, VT.  Several people honked and waved... knowing what it takes to make it this far.  While posing for my picture by the border sign, a granite "VT - NH" engraved in the middle of the bridge over the Connecticut River, I yelled to an unsuspecting motorist "this is the best day ever!"  And I really felt as if it was the best day ever.

New Hampshire... less than 450 miles to go to Katahdin... 1,740 completed... my body is starting to give...

It takes a tremendous amount of energy... physically, mentally, emotionally to come this far.  For the most part, I've mastered the mental and emotional aspect.  However, the physical part I have little control over.  Almost all hikers that make it to this point are starting to become famished.  Most are burning muscle and some have prominent bone structures in their faces.  Whenever NOBOs cross paths with SOBOs at this point on the trail, we notice how fresh their bodies look and perform.  We NOBOs have stained, ripped, torn, and dirty gear that we're carrying on our emaciated bodies.  The SOBOs still have an unseasoned look... even after just coming out of the most difficult part of the entire trail, The Whites.  I wonder if that's how I looked when I was only 400-500 miles into this journey...
I recently found out that if your sweat smells of ammonia, you're burning muscle.   Guess how I smell?!   When I started my hike, I weighed about 130 lbs.  Currently, I'm around 120 lbs.   I simply don't have much to give up anymore and I'm almost to a point where my body is just tired.  Thus, I simply can't do big mile days anymore.  Yet, that is a moot point because you can't do big days in The Whites, but up to about Massachusetts, I used to crank out 20+ a day like it was nothing... but not anymore.  The terrain of Vermont wasn't particularly difficult, but I felt like it was due to the condition of my body.
My physical condition isn't going to dampen my mood because I'm still having a blast on this journey!  Like I mentioned above, today was one of the best days ever!!  I'm going to take some time off in Hanover to regroup and sort some things out... and then I'm tackling NH!
I believe that if I continue to stuff my face with calorie-dense food whenever possible, I should be alright.

Ben & Jerry's, anyone?!